The Frozen obsession continues at my house. I’m totally enabling it, but it is so. much. fun. to get the squeals of delight that come when I complete one of these little projects! This week, I made Anna’s coronation dress for our dress-up box.
My requirements: I wanted a sweetheart bodice. I wanted fluffy sleeves — and they actually had to be sleeves, not the off-the-shoulder look that’s held up with straps over the shoulders. The skirt had to be seriously twirly. I wanted the skirt to have the look of the godets from the movie, but without that kind of complicated sewing. And most importantly, it had to be fast. Like complete from fabric shopping to dress-up box in an afternoon fast. With a few hiccups and design changes along the way (for example, this satin did NOT look good as flutter sleeves, but swapped to more traditional peasant sleeves? Excellent!), we made it. On all accounts. Woo-hoo!! I’ve hand drawn bodice pieces for sizes 2-3, 4-5, and 6. You can download those at the bottom of the page.
We’ve also since added tutorials for Elsa’s dress and an Elsa hat to crochet. Check out the links at the bottom of the page.
So here we go! First off the fabric requirements. These are for the largest size, but they don’t decrease dramatically for the smaller sizes.:
Bodice: 1/3 yard of black satin
Skirt and sleeves: 2 yards of green satin
Trim: 6 yards of 2″ wide ribbon or trim. (I got mine at JoAnn’s with a 50% off coupon, but the trim in this link is similar. You can add more of this if you want, but trim can be expensive, so I only added 4 trim pieces on the skirt front and back.)
Elastic: 1 yard of regular 1/4″ wide elastic
Bias Tape: 1 package (4 yards) of metallic single fold bias tape
Thread: Black, green, metallic, and elastic (optional)
- Follow this link to download the bodice pattern pieces: anna dress bodice pieces
- Fold your bodice fabric to make a center fold for the bodice front. Align the side of the bodice front pattern piece marked “fold” with the fold line, and cut out the piece. Repeat, so that you have two bodice front pieces.
- Fold your bodice fabric to a make a center fold for the bodice back. Align the side of the bodice back pattern piece marked “fold” with the fold line, and cut out the piece. You will only need one bodice back.
- Cut two rectangles for the sleeves
- For size 2, cut 5”x15”
- For size 4, cut 5.5”x16”
- For size 6, cut 6”x17”
- Cut 2 skirt rectangles
- For size 2, cut 21”x40”
- For size 4, cut 23”x50”
- For size 6, cut 25”x60”
- Cut the trim into even lengths of:
- Size 2: 21”
- Size 4: 23”
- Size 6: 25”
- Cut 1/4″ elastic into the following lengths:
- For size 2, cut 2 lengths of 4.5″ for the top of the sleeve and 2 lengths of 7″ for the bottom of the sleeve
- For size 4, cut 2 lengths of 5″ for the top of the sleeve and 2 lengths of 8″ for the bottom of the sleeve
- For size 6, cut 2 lengths of 5.5″ for the top of the sleeve and 2 lengths of 9″ for the bottom of the sleeve
- With right sides together, align the two bodice front pieces, and pin them along the neckline. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch along the neckline.
- Remove the pins, then clip along the curves, being careful not to clip your stitches. Turn the bodice so that the wrong sides are now together (with the clipped seam edge inside). Finger press the seam line, pin it to secure the fabric from moving, then top stitch the neckline of the bodice.
- For ease of sewing throughout, I like to baste the side and bottom edges of the bodice piece together. This step is optional, but I highly recommend it!
- Fold the top edge of the bodice back under ¼” toward the wrong side of the fabric and press, then fold down another ¼” and press again. Stitch in place to hem the top edge of the bodice back.
- Fold the long side of one of the sleeve rectangles under ¼” to the wrong side and press. Then fold it over again ½” and press. Stitch the pressed edge closed along the folded edge to make the elastic casing.
- Fold the sleeves in half, aligning the short edges. Align the wide edge of the armhole cutout with the elastic casing sewn in the previous step, and cut it out. Repeat with the opposite sleeve.
- Thread the top elastic piece through the casing on the sleeve. Stitch each end in place, about ¼” from the edge of the casing.
- With right sides together, align the armhole cutout of the sleeve with the curved cutout of the bodice back and pin in place. Sew the seam, then pink, zig-zag, or serge the raw edges.
- Repeat the previous step, aligning the right side of the same sleeve cutout with the curved cut of the bodice front.
- Repeat steps eight and nine with opposite sleeve.
- Lay 4 trim pieces out on top one of the skirt pieces, spacing evenly. Pin in place, then stitch down. Repeat with the remaining trim pieces and opposite skirt piece.
- Sew a gathering stitch along the top of the skirt piece, then pin in place to the bottom of the bodice back, with right sides together. Stitch in place, then serge, zig-zag, or pink the raw edge. Top stitch in place.
- Repeat step 12 for the other skirt piece and the bodice front.
- Starting at sleeve edges, align sleeve edge, bodice sides, and skirt sides. Pin in place, then stitch. Zig-zag, serge, or pink the raw edges. Repeat on the opposite side of the dress.
- Fold the raw edge of the sleeve bottom under ¼” and press. Press down another ½” to make the elastic casing. Stitch the casing closed, leaving a ½” opening through which to thread the elastic.
- Thread the bottom elastic piece through the casing at the bottom of the sleeve. Secure the elastic by overlapping ½” and stitching the edges, then stitch the opening in the casing closed.
- Press the bottom of the skirt under ¼”, then press under another ¼”. Stitch to secure the hem.
- To outline the neckline, pin metallic single fold bias tape around the top edge of the black bodice. I followed both the neckline and under the arms. Stitch as close to the edge as possible on both the top and bottom. I started under one arm so that the folded-under edges wouldn’t show.
- To outline the waistband, pin bias tape along the top stitching of the skirt piece. Again, stitching as close to the edge as possible secure the top and bottom edges.
- Optional Step: To make the dress bodice a little bit more fitted, you can shirr the back bodice. I did this after the dress was complete, so you can try on the dress first to decide if you want to complete the shirring. To shirr, you’ll need elastic thread.
- Hand wind your bobbin with elastic thread. You want the thread to stay on the bobbin, but don’t stretch the thread as you wind your bobbin. It will stretch as you sew it onto the bodice.
- Insert your elastic bobbin into the machine, then thread your needle with black thread to match the bodice.
- Set your stitch length to the longest length your machine will allow, then adjust your machine’s tension to +6 or +7.
- Working with the right side of the bodice facing up, stitch along the bottom edge of the bias tape on the bodice back. Be sure to back stitch TWICE at the beginning and end of the row so your elastic won’t pull out!
- Using your first stitching line as a guide, stitch the next row ¼” down from the first line of stitching. I use the edge of my presser foot as my guide. Repeat this process, adding another line of stitching every ¼” until you reach the top of the bias tape at the waistline of the dress.
Now she’s so delighted with the dress, that she wants me to fix her hair like Anna’s at the coronation. Oh boy! Here we go again!
If you’d like to see some of our other Frozen costume tutorials, check out our tutorial for an easy peasant-style Elsa dress. The first is a toddler size (sizes 2-3):
Then there’s a child size (sizes 5-7):
And here’s one for Elsa’s hair (all sizes):